Biography
Stein, Gertrude.
Pierre Balmain, like many great designers before him, was born in France. At 20, he began working as a sketch artist for the Fashion House of Piguet, according to the A-Z of Fashion’s author, John Major. He quickly moved up in the fashion industry; also becoming an assistant designer for the House of Molyneux in 1934. He then joined Lucien Lelong as a designer in 1939 (Major). According to Gertude Stein, in an issue of Vogue magazine from December 1945, Balmain was called up for service the same year, creating a gap in his design career until 1940-1941 when he came back to re-join Lelong, “There were dark days when we first knew Pierre Balmain. We met his mother in ’39 at Aix-les-Bains and she said she had a son up there in the army in the snows of Savoy and he read my books, would I dedicate him one, naturally I was pleased . . . and then there was the liberation and then Paris here we all were and Pierre just full of what he was going to do and we were sure he would do it and he has.”
Balmain worked with Lelong until 1945, when he opened his own Maison Balmain, which successfully combined a couture house with a “lucrative” fragrance line. In the early 50’s he expanded into American markets, under the name Jolie Madame (Major). Balmain was successful in the 1950’s, especially due to his part in popularizing the “New Look” alongside Dior. In the 1960’s, Balmain sold their fragrance line to Revlon (Major). They ended up acquiring the line back in the 1980’s. He remained the head designer until his death in 1982. The company had a lost period after his death, due to over licensing and expanding from a couture and fragrance house, to creating a ready-to-wear line. In 1993, Oscar de la Renta, made history with Maison Balmain becoming the first couture house to have an American head designer (Major). “Critics generally agree that de la Renta, who spent nearly a decade at Balmain, succeeded not only in reviving the company's fortunes, but also in restoring the house's old reputation for elegance,” states author John Major. Today Balmain has locations in capitals all over the world, from Paris to Tokyo. Their headquarters remains in France but they also have their e-store and sell through Barneys and Nordstrom in the United States. Though Pierre Balmain only lived to be 68, his name and legacy continues on through his design house.
Balmain worked with Lelong until 1945, when he opened his own Maison Balmain, which successfully combined a couture house with a “lucrative” fragrance line. In the early 50’s he expanded into American markets, under the name Jolie Madame (Major). Balmain was successful in the 1950’s, especially due to his part in popularizing the “New Look” alongside Dior. In the 1960’s, Balmain sold their fragrance line to Revlon (Major). They ended up acquiring the line back in the 1980’s. He remained the head designer until his death in 1982. The company had a lost period after his death, due to over licensing and expanding from a couture and fragrance house, to creating a ready-to-wear line. In 1993, Oscar de la Renta, made history with Maison Balmain becoming the first couture house to have an American head designer (Major). “Critics generally agree that de la Renta, who spent nearly a decade at Balmain, succeeded not only in reviving the company's fortunes, but also in restoring the house's old reputation for elegance,” states author John Major. Today Balmain has locations in capitals all over the world, from Paris to Tokyo. Their headquarters remains in France but they also have their e-store and sell through Barneys and Nordstrom in the United States. Though Pierre Balmain only lived to be 68, his name and legacy continues on through his design house.
Critical Analyses
The 1950’s were an era of peacetime, progress, wealth and focus on family values like the idea of the American Dream. With the war over, Europe was broken and the United States emerged a superpower. This massive change from a decade of war to a decade of growth and prosperity lead to an extreme change in fashion. In great contrast from the 1940’s fashion, the “fifties” took a step back towards extreme femininity and accentuated hour-glass silhouettes, which had not been prominent in fashion since before both World Wars. With the return of the male workforce from war, women were encouraged to go back to their previous roles in society: stay-at-home mothers and wives. Despite women’s rights movements and popular figures like Mary the Ripper from the ‘40’s, women of the fifties were expected to look to television characters like Lucy, of “I Love Lucy,” as role models. War-time restrictions were lifted and designers were excited to take advantage.
The fashion of this era, coined as the “New Look” by Harpers Bazar, was influenced mostly by three designers, Jacques Fath, Christian Dior and Pierre Balmain. Critics of this “New Look” considered it a step back for women, as well an inappropriate amount of fabric to use for single garments, considering how financially broken Europe was after the war. In the United States however, this look was much more welcomed and even influenced Claire McCardell’s “American Look.” Pierre Balmain managed to be successful in both the US and Europe at this time because of his simple elegance and impeccable construction. An October 15th 1945 issue of Vogue reports, “Pierre Balmain-a house new this season- was the, excitement of Paris Couture showings. Although his collections is full of ideas there is not a bazarre note but only beautiful clothes that you really want to wear. “Enchanted” and “Pretty” were the adjectives most often heard during the showing . . .” Balmain’s designs consisted mostly of bell skirts, empire waists and hourglass silhouettes, which emphasized women’s hips, derriere and breasts. His designs focused on minimalism and timeless beauty, clearly a benefit of working with Lucien Lelong, and another fashion icon, Christian Dior. Historian, Farid Chenoune and the Berg Fashion Library consider Balmain alongside Dior and Jacques Fath as “the supreme practitioners of the New Look generation.”
According to author John major, “during the 1950s and 1960s, Balmain's clients included some of the world's most elegant and best-dressed women, such as Katharine Hepburn, Vivien Leigh, Marlene Dietrich, and Queen Sirikit of Thailand.” His designed were not just solely dress but also women’s suits. The suits of the 1940’s were extremely stiff and resembled men’s military uniforms. James’ versions were softer and more feminine, even more so than the Chanel Suit. He is an icon because of his incredible silhouette designs and construction but also for his business sense. Though highly recognized for his couture gowns, he also created a luxurious and successful fragrance line that continues to be a part of the House of Balmain. Even though his dresses are considered extremely formal and conservative by today’s standards, they remain timeless. His iconic designs and influence can be seen in every prom and wedding season, even though they are not held to the same standard as Balmain’s originals. (Major)
The fashion of this era, coined as the “New Look” by Harpers Bazar, was influenced mostly by three designers, Jacques Fath, Christian Dior and Pierre Balmain. Critics of this “New Look” considered it a step back for women, as well an inappropriate amount of fabric to use for single garments, considering how financially broken Europe was after the war. In the United States however, this look was much more welcomed and even influenced Claire McCardell’s “American Look.” Pierre Balmain managed to be successful in both the US and Europe at this time because of his simple elegance and impeccable construction. An October 15th 1945 issue of Vogue reports, “Pierre Balmain-a house new this season- was the, excitement of Paris Couture showings. Although his collections is full of ideas there is not a bazarre note but only beautiful clothes that you really want to wear. “Enchanted” and “Pretty” were the adjectives most often heard during the showing . . .” Balmain’s designs consisted mostly of bell skirts, empire waists and hourglass silhouettes, which emphasized women’s hips, derriere and breasts. His designs focused on minimalism and timeless beauty, clearly a benefit of working with Lucien Lelong, and another fashion icon, Christian Dior. Historian, Farid Chenoune and the Berg Fashion Library consider Balmain alongside Dior and Jacques Fath as “the supreme practitioners of the New Look generation.”
According to author John major, “during the 1950s and 1960s, Balmain's clients included some of the world's most elegant and best-dressed women, such as Katharine Hepburn, Vivien Leigh, Marlene Dietrich, and Queen Sirikit of Thailand.” His designed were not just solely dress but also women’s suits. The suits of the 1940’s were extremely stiff and resembled men’s military uniforms. James’ versions were softer and more feminine, even more so than the Chanel Suit. He is an icon because of his incredible silhouette designs and construction but also for his business sense. Though highly recognized for his couture gowns, he also created a luxurious and successful fragrance line that continues to be a part of the House of Balmain. Even though his dresses are considered extremely formal and conservative by today’s standards, they remain timeless. His iconic designs and influence can be seen in every prom and wedding season, even though they are not held to the same standard as Balmain’s originals. (Major)
Analyses of Future Trends
It is impossible to list the breadth of designers, Pierre Balmain influenced throughout his career and even after his death. The most obvious designers he has influenced would be the head designers that carried on The House of Balmain. Accompanying many other designers between the 1980’s and today, at the head of the Balmain House, was Oscar de la Renta. He is considered by many to be the savior of the Balmain couture brand (Major). He took over in 1993 and his first runway show was a major hit in the fashion world according to Vogue author, Hamish Bowles, in the article, "Vogue's View: Well Suited." The collection he presented resembled suits Balmain designed in the 1950’s. Both are feminine, clean cut, and create a sexy hour glass shape silhouette. This quintessential Balmain Suit remains a staple for the Balmain brand; showing up in the 2012 fall collection. Similar to Balmain, de la Renta is also known for his timeless creations. His design for Sandra Bullocks’ Vogue shoot of 2003 is reminiscent of Balmain’s design for Mlle. Laure de Noailles’ debutant ball in 1945.
What is incredible about Balmain designs from the 1950’s, is that you could put them on a bride or a girl going to prom this year and they would still be considered the epitome of style and beauty. While extreme feminine dresses, like Balmain’s are reserved for special occasions in modern times, his other designs like his suits are similar to suits women continue to wear to work. They inspired de la Renta’s first collection in 1993 and by extension other women’s suit designers like Ann Taylor. The extent of Balmain’s influence even made it to multiple pieces of clothing in my wardrobe; a black version of his sheath dress that made the cover of Vogue in 1955, as well as a Jessica McClintock A-line, Polk-a-dot dress with an empire waist. Though his silhouette may be considered simple, there is no denying the lasting influence his designs have had on women’s fashion.
What is incredible about Balmain designs from the 1950’s, is that you could put them on a bride or a girl going to prom this year and they would still be considered the epitome of style and beauty. While extreme feminine dresses, like Balmain’s are reserved for special occasions in modern times, his other designs like his suits are similar to suits women continue to wear to work. They inspired de la Renta’s first collection in 1993 and by extension other women’s suit designers like Ann Taylor. The extent of Balmain’s influence even made it to multiple pieces of clothing in my wardrobe; a black version of his sheath dress that made the cover of Vogue in 1955, as well as a Jessica McClintock A-line, Polk-a-dot dress with an empire waist. Though his silhouette may be considered simple, there is no denying the lasting influence his designs have had on women’s fashion.