Biography
Born Charles Wilson Brega James in Surrey, England in 1906, Charles James was temperamental and artistic from a very young age. He was born the son of British Military Officer and his mother was prominent in the wealthy social group of Chicago; gifting him an international up-bringing. He attended a British Public School, Harrow, where he befriended another icon in the fashion industry, Cecil Beaton. He moved to Chicago as a teen and began working for a utility company and was financially supported by friends of his mother. He made and sold patterned scarves at his work, most likely leading to his eventual firing. He got his first real job in fashion as a milliner, similar to Chanel. In 1928, he moved to New York City and was able to receive recognition for his hats by Diana Vreeland, a columnist for Harper’s Bazaar, which led to their sale in a notable Department Store of the time. He moved to London in 1929 and opened his own design business, but unfortunately due to bad timing he was hit hard by the financial collapse of 1929 and filed bankruptcy. He was able to bounce-back however and reopened in 1933.
The 1930’s were considered a creative time for James; he licensed designs such as the Taxi Dress that zippered around the waist, as well as the figure 8 wrapped skirts of 1939. Much of his later work is based off his designs he created during this decade. Despite creating popular designs, Charles James had many financial issues and poor business practices that led to him being unwelcome in England after 1939. It was clear at this point in his career, similar to Poiret; his extremely artistic and off-beat personality would have a very negative affect on his career. After moving back to New York City, despite war-time rations, James worked with Elizabeth Arden to create many collections, including the design of the Sirene Gown. Their partnership only lasted a few years, due to severe financial issues. The fifties were a more stable time for James, remaining on Madison Avenue for longer than any other location he had previously stayed at. James perfectionism and self-perceived value limited his clientele to the wealthiest of women, including his most memorable client, Millicent Huddleston Rogers, a Standard Oil heiress, whom may have been just as picky as he was. The 1950’s were an exciting time for James. He was awarded two Coty Awards in 1950 and 1954 as well as married Nancy Lee Gregory and fathered a son, Charles Junior. His new family led his design career in a slightly different direction, creating an infant line that eventually influenced an adult line.
In great contrast, the 1960’s were a decade of tribulations for James. His marriage ended in 1961 and despite a solute from Halston and many others in the fashion community, James spent the rest of his years before his death documenting his “proper” place in fashion history.
(Elizabeth Ann Coleman A-Z of Fashion Author)
The 1930’s were considered a creative time for James; he licensed designs such as the Taxi Dress that zippered around the waist, as well as the figure 8 wrapped skirts of 1939. Much of his later work is based off his designs he created during this decade. Despite creating popular designs, Charles James had many financial issues and poor business practices that led to him being unwelcome in England after 1939. It was clear at this point in his career, similar to Poiret; his extremely artistic and off-beat personality would have a very negative affect on his career. After moving back to New York City, despite war-time rations, James worked with Elizabeth Arden to create many collections, including the design of the Sirene Gown. Their partnership only lasted a few years, due to severe financial issues. The fifties were a more stable time for James, remaining on Madison Avenue for longer than any other location he had previously stayed at. James perfectionism and self-perceived value limited his clientele to the wealthiest of women, including his most memorable client, Millicent Huddleston Rogers, a Standard Oil heiress, whom may have been just as picky as he was. The 1950’s were an exciting time for James. He was awarded two Coty Awards in 1950 and 1954 as well as married Nancy Lee Gregory and fathered a son, Charles Junior. His new family led his design career in a slightly different direction, creating an infant line that eventually influenced an adult line.
In great contrast, the 1960’s were a decade of tribulations for James. His marriage ended in 1961 and despite a solute from Halston and many others in the fashion community, James spent the rest of his years before his death documenting his “proper” place in fashion history.
(Elizabeth Ann Coleman A-Z of Fashion Author)
Critical Analyses
Like many designers trying to survive in the 1930’s, Charles James struggled to keep his business afloat. He understood the need for distraction that many people felt during World War II. He provided this distraction to the fashion world with his glamorous designs; even ignoring war restrictions. His fabrics were eye-catching, not because of their loud prints or extravagant and bold details but because of his construction and superb ability to drape. The 1950’s were about innovations and prosperity. James took advantage of this time to pay attention to his biggest clients, Mrs. William Randolph Hearst Jr. and Millicent Huddleston Rogers, both women who were able to pay for his extremely high priced garments at the peak of his success. His choice to use capitalism to his advantage was a reflection of the times he lived in.
Charles James left a great impact on the fashion world despite his turbulent career, “His fellow fashion designers, potentially his most severe critics, left no question regarding their assessment of his talent. Poiret passed his mantle to James, and Schiaparelli and Chanel dressed in his clothes. Dior praised him for being the inspiration for the New Look, and Balenciaga saw James as the greatest and best American couturier; moreover, he believed that James was the only couturier who had raised dressmaking from an applied to a pure art form,” states Coleman. Though his perfectionism and inability to give up ownership of his designs after he sold them, was potentially what ended his career very early, it may also be what made him an incredible designer. He had an attention to detail that never wavered despite the immense amount of designs he created each season. He never needed to over-embellished with too much color, print or sparkles; the cut of his designs, the seams on his gowns, were so artfully draped and constructed, they alone are what made him an icon.
Charles James left a great impact on the fashion world despite his turbulent career, “His fellow fashion designers, potentially his most severe critics, left no question regarding their assessment of his talent. Poiret passed his mantle to James, and Schiaparelli and Chanel dressed in his clothes. Dior praised him for being the inspiration for the New Look, and Balenciaga saw James as the greatest and best American couturier; moreover, he believed that James was the only couturier who had raised dressmaking from an applied to a pure art form,” states Coleman. Though his perfectionism and inability to give up ownership of his designs after he sold them, was potentially what ended his career very early, it may also be what made him an incredible designer. He had an attention to detail that never wavered despite the immense amount of designs he created each season. He never needed to over-embellished with too much color, print or sparkles; the cut of his designs, the seams on his gowns, were so artfully draped and constructed, they alone are what made him an icon.
Analyses of Future Trends
What will be remembered about Charles James a few decades from now? His superb draping for the feminine figure, his impeccable construction, and his attention to detail. Many designers from Schiaparelli and Chanel, whom wore his clothes, to Dior and Balenciaga whom honored his designs as art; consider James an incredible couturier.
Charles James has inspired many designers since the peak of his career in the mid-20th Century. Hints of his aesthetic can be seen in designs coming down the runway almost every season from Oscar de la Renta to Alexander McQueen. For fall 2012 especially, Zac Posen’s collection is inspired by James and Balenciaga, according to Vogue Magazine’s Andre Leon Talley. In the Vogue article, they even have a photograph by Cecil Beaton of many of James’ gowns that defined his career. This photograph continues to influence designers today and will in the future. His aesthetic and construction are hard to match and if you asked him, no other designer could ever come close to his talent. His timelessness is something designers try to recreate but often fall short of his talent. His silhouettes have withstood the test of time and will continue to do so as long as femininity and classic glamour remain a trend in fashion.
Charles James has inspired many designers since the peak of his career in the mid-20th Century. Hints of his aesthetic can be seen in designs coming down the runway almost every season from Oscar de la Renta to Alexander McQueen. For fall 2012 especially, Zac Posen’s collection is inspired by James and Balenciaga, according to Vogue Magazine’s Andre Leon Talley. In the Vogue article, they even have a photograph by Cecil Beaton of many of James’ gowns that defined his career. This photograph continues to influence designers today and will in the future. His aesthetic and construction are hard to match and if you asked him, no other designer could ever come close to his talent. His timelessness is something designers try to recreate but often fall short of his talent. His silhouettes have withstood the test of time and will continue to do so as long as femininity and classic glamour remain a trend in fashion.